Archive for the ‘Vegetarian’ Category

How does a 120-year-old bakery bakes a loaf?

Sunday, November 6th, 2011

Mayot family started a small bakery near Lille, France in 1889 at the brink of the Industrial Revolution in the region. Their son took over the family business as mines and textile industry boomed with coal and steam power. Right before the Second World War, his daughter married into the Holder family, which has continued bake bread in the traditional manner into the twenty-first century with the name PAUL. Currently PAUL bakes in nearly 500 stores in over 22 countries.Image: State Library of Victoria Collections – StreamGate

PAUL opened its flagship American store in Penn Quarter of Washington DC about half a year ago and is opening a second location in historic Georgetown district of DC in a renovated building in DC that was also built in year 1889, the same year PAUL was started in France.

PAUL bakery believes that “excellent bread depends on excellent ingredients and time-honored methods” developed in France, where bread is an integral part of every meal. Even with a long French baking tradition, PAUL is not shy from using latest technology to bake and committed to making breads from locally sourced flour as long as the quality permits.

Photo Credit: Jason Colston for PAUL USA.

In spring, I got opportunity to learn about making bread from Maxime Holder, the president & CEO and David Dequeker, the chief baker & pastry chef of PAUL. During the lesson, two soft-spoken French baking experts shared their knowledge of baking bread in this 120-year-old bakery.

PAUL’s Bread Recipe

This is a basic recipe bread dough recipe adapted from PAUL’s (converted grams to approximate cups and teaspoons).

Wheat flour 3⅔ cups (1 lb)
Yeast 1 teaspoon
Salt 1¾ teaspoon
Water 2 cups minus 2 tablespoons

Place yeast and salt on opposing side on wheat in mixing bowl.  Yeast is placed away from the salt to avoid prematurely killing yeast with salt. Dough should be fairly wet.

Add room temperature water, and knead the dough by hand on a lightly floured surface. The kneading is done to incorporate air. The best way is to hold the dough by its edge and hit on table while folding it at same time, repeating it fast.

Proof the dough in a covered bowl by allowing it to rise for at least 4 hours. After four hours you should see bubbles and should smell the fermentation.

After proofing, knead and gently pre-shape the dough by slowly folding it over and over in lightly floured surface. In the last stage, add any ingredients you want in the bread bet it chocolate, olive oil, fried onions, poppy seed whatever you want…as you wish.

Once shaped, let the dough rise just a shy of an hour. Gently, give it a final shape you desire.

Bake at 425° F.  Baking time varies according to size of dough. Rule of thumb is 50 grams loaf for 10 – 15 minutes, 100 grams for 15-20 minutes, and over 200 grams for 25-30 minutes.

It is noteworthy that the recipe for bread uses just flour, yeast, salt, and water. It doesn’t use any artificial chemicals, and has remained unchanged for over a century. In United States, PAUL still bakes its breads onsite in each store – not in giant industrial factories. PAUL now uses many advance tools such state-of-art deck ovens to bake breads, but the essence of baking is same – excellent bread with excellent ingredients made by honest methods.

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A Tax Relief Fruit Salad

Tuesday, April 19th, 2011

While picking up some groceries, I was happy to find out that the Whole Foods was honoring the tax day, with a promotion called “Tax Relief Deal”. The best deals were on perishables, like seafood, meat and fruits, which were “progressively” discounted up to 30%.


Image based on photo by MoneyBlogNewz

As you are probably aware, the Whole Foods often charges a premium for these items. Naturally, I felt inclined to maximize the value while eating healthy. A surplus of antioxidants was exactly what my body needed after a grueling run through the Mount Vernon trail.

I have always liked fruit salads at picnics and outside luncheons. On this balmy spring day, I thought about giving it a shot. I wanted to drift away from the everyday American variety of cantaloupes and watermelons — instead experiment a bit with the exotic ingredients. Ah those mangoes looked delicious and the blackberries looked like vines on a Lilliputian island. I had to include those.

List of Fruit Salad ingredients

1 red apple (Chilean)
1 mango
2 oranges
5-8 blackberries
12-15 seedless grapes
1 small pack of raisins
Newman’s Own Raspberry & Walnut Dressing

First, I thinly diced the apple and placed them on a clean bowl. The apple was sweet to the taste and smelled delicious.

Next I cut the strawberries into triangular little pieces and placed them on the bowl.

Next I peeled the mango and chopped them into slender little pieces. The mangoes were firmer than the Indian variety and were easy to work with.  They were not juicy as their South Asian counterparts and a bit sour in taste. I wondered how they would turn out in my fruit salad.

Up next, were the blackberries and the oranges. I am a big fan of citrus fruits because they are oozing with antioxidants, but I was rather disappointed with the quality of the oranges. No wonder they were the cheapest item on the menu. You get what you pay for. I took extra care to remove all the white pith on the oranges, despite knowing that they are a rich source of fiber. Taste prevails sometimes.

The blackberries, on the other hand, were my favorite ingredient. But at $4.00/case, you need to exercise a bit of restraint. They go perfectly when served chilled.

Up next, I decided to throw in some grapes and raisins. The grapes were the best of its kind – succulent, sweet and ready to provide you with a burst of flavonoids and other phytochemicals.  Their cousins, the raisins, were however of the generic variety obtained from CVS. I was amazed to find out that they were still “fresh” even after months of storage under room temperature. Wonder what types of preservatives and how much of each has been added in each box. I guess a few morsels won’t kill me after all.

As for the dressing, I decided to go with Paul Newman’s Own Raspberry & Walnut Dressing. Add a few tablespoons, stir the fruit amalgamation around a few times and chill the whole thing in the refrigerator for 5-10 minutes.

As the fruit was chilling, I tried a tiny portion with a small cup of Greek yogurt. It was delicious.

As I ploughed through my fruit salad, my mind veered off to the trails.  I thought of all the orchids, the yellow daisies and the white cherries that are blooming along the trail, signaling the arrival of spring. Every time I pass through, I want to nibble at the flowers!  Although they look so damn tasty, I bet they are not as delectable as my fruit salad. ;)

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Avocado Browning

Monday, December 20th, 2010

I am afraid of avocados turning into brown mush. I love guacamole but don’t dare to make it for everyday use because, unless you eat it all, it soon turns into bad, unappetizing brownish chunks.

Avocado

Avocadoes rapidly brown after they are cut open because their cells become exposed to air. The oxygen in air reacts with the enzyme polyphenol oxidase (PPO) and forms brown pigmentation called melanoidin. The avocado animation shows browning of an avocado from right after it is cut open to 300 minutes (5 hours) later.

Animation of Browning of Avocado (High Resolution Avocado Browning)

This polyphenol oxidase reaction often causes other produce, such as apples and potatoes, to brown. Often, polyphenol oxidase browning is desirable. Who doesn’t love the deep brown color of raisins, tea or coffee – all due to polyphenol oxidase browning.

But, we do hate unappetizing brownish-green guacamole. People suggest many ways to prevent or slow down guacamole browning. One of my friend’s family members advocates putting avocado pits into the guacamole, while others suggest adding lime or lemon juice. Some folks swear by adding oils to prevent browning while others swear by wrapping it tightly (preventing oxygen). One of the most straight forward ways of reducing enzymatic browning is to apply heat (aka cooking) to denature polyphenol oxidase. However, cooking may lead to unfavorable texture and taste changes.

Being curious, I decided to perform a mini experiment on avocado/guacamole browning.

Normal Avacado
The first guacamole sample was the control with no additional ingredients –just avocados.

Normal Avocado

Pit Inside the Guacamole

According to my many Mexican American friends, putting the avocado pit inside guacamole is an age old tradition that is believed to reduce the browning of avocados. In our experiments, putting the pit in mashed avocados didn’t have any effect on its browning. On a side note, those small slippery avocado pits are big choking hazards.

Avocado with pit

Adding Lemon or Lime Juice
Adding ascorbic acid and citric acid can decrease the rate of enzymatic browning of avocados by lowering the pH of the tissue. Anywhere from 12 mg/oz to 1400 mg/oz  of citric acid is found in lemon and lime juices.  The phenolase responsible for browning are most active in the neutral pH range of 6 to 7 while there is no enzymatic activity, i.e., no browning, below pH of 3. This experiment showed that adding the lime juice was the most successful at reducing the browning of the guacamole.

Avocado with Lime juice

Adding Oil
Some recipes for guacamole include olive oil. I used to have two reasons for not adding olive oil in guacamole. The first reason is that avocado already has 15 % oil, whereas other fruits such as apple only have 0.2 % fat. The second reason is that the unique flavors of the olive oils don’t go well with the avocadoes in guacamole.  Now I have a third reason, adding oil slightly increased the rate of enzymatic browning of guacamole.

Avocado with Olive Oil

Adding Salt
One of the most essential seasonings for guacamole is salt. You can skip pepper, cilantro, or even lime, but not salt. Adding salt to guacamole seemed to drastically expedite enzymatic browning of avocados. Salted guacamole browned quickly, after only a few minutes of exposure to air. The image of unsalted and salted avocados after 15 minutes clearly shows that salt expedites the browning process in avocados.

Unsalted vs. Salted Avocado after 15 minutes
Salted Avocado

Covering Avocados with Plastic Wrap
Tightly sealing guacamole by leaving no air between the plastic wrap and guacamole didn’t reduce the browning of guacamole. It is slightly better than open guacamole, but definitely had more enzymatic browning than the acidified (lime) guacamole.

Plastic Wrap covered Avocado

Refrigerated Avocados
Avocados refrigerated at 5 °C or 40°F did far better than avocados stored outside. The refrigerated guacamole still looked green while the surface of the guacamole stored outside turned completely dark brown (as shown on the inset).

Refrigerated Avocado (Inset shows unrefrigerated avocado)

During my first experiment, I forgot to put the guacamole designated for the refrigerator inside of it. I conducted the experiment again with a different batch of avocados. This resulted in a different time scale for browning of the avocado, but the ultimate before and after result remains the same.

Each Avocado is Unique
These mini experiments were conducted on three batches of generic avocados bought from local stores. The browning results for each batch of guacamole differ due to the cultivar (variety) of the avocado, ripeness (other aspects) of the avocado, and its storage conditions (humidity, temperature etc.). For example, in most of the experiments noticeable browning of mashed avocados started within 3 hours, while in other experiments browning  barely started around 6 hours.

Timescale of browning depends on type/condition of avocados

Fresh Homemade Guacamole
Fresh guacamole is very easy to make. To make homemade guacamole cut and mash the avocados and add seasonings, such as lime juice, salt, pepper, garlic, cilantro, hot sauce, tomatoes, and onions.

Making Fresh Guacamole

The store bought guacamole is preserved by high pressure vacuum packaging, and by adding a lot of preservatives to add to shelf life. Many filler ingredients, such as oils and starch are added to reduce cost. In 2006, a Californian sued Kraft food because their guacamole had less than 2 percent avocados and instead was filled with food starch, oils, and food coloring. An example of a refrigerated guacamole on sale in a grocery store shows that this commercial guacamole has no less than 36 ingredients, avocado being the 18th item on the list.

Guacamole in a refrigerated aisle of a store (Dec 2010)

How to reduce browning of guacamole?
Without state of the art high pressure vacuum sealing or using preservatives, it’s still difficult to absolutely get rid of enzymatic browning of guacamole. However, I suggest the following steps to reduce the rate of browning in guacamole;

  1. Cut and mash avocados just before making guacamole. Make sure to prep other ingredients beforehand.
  2. Add lime/lemon juice (according to taste) right after mashing avocados. Cover it up with plastic wrap.
  3. Refrigerate your guacamole.
  4. Delay adding salt until the last moments before serving the guacamole.
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Pomelo salad (Bhogatee Sadeko)

Thursday, December 2nd, 2010

One of my favorite salads growing up in Nepal was Pomelo (Chinese grapefruit) salad made in a similar style as coleslaw. However, instead of a mayonnaise-based dressing, which is used in coleslaw, pomelo salad has a yogurt based dressing. The pomelo salad is known as Bhogatee Sadeko in Nepali, which roughly translates to marinated/seasoned (sadeko) pomelo (bhogatee, often spelled bhogate and mistranslated as grapefruit). It is also known as bhogatee (polmelo) paun (sour) in Newari language.

Pomelo salad (Bhogatee Sadeko)

Pomelo, Citrus grandis or Citrus maxima, is perhaps the largest citrus fruit, about 7 inches or more in diameter, with a pale greenish yellow rind, which is a inch or so thick. Pomelo tastes like a bit like grapefruit but is sweeter, less tart,  and is not bitter.

Pomelo (Image based on photo by John Loo)

Pomelo is native to southeastern Asia, and is cultivated and consumed in countries such as China, India, Indonesia, Thailand , Nepal, Philippines, Vietnam, etc. The attempts to introduce pomelo to the United States in the beginning of the twentieth century failed mainly due to inferior cultivar and enthusiasm. Currently, pomelo isn’t easily found in your everyday local grocery stores in the United States. However, it can be easily obtained at most local gourmet, Asian grocery stores and often in big box discount stores such as Costco.

In Nepal, pomelo is harvested around the beginning of the winter. A typical warm winter weekend may involve the family basking in sun on roof deck or porch and peeling off thick pomelo rinds for salad. The chef of the house, which is usually mom, marinates/spice up (sadeko) pomelo, while kids make hats out of pomelo rind and play.

Pomelo rind hat on cat (Image based on widely circulated digitally anonymous photo)

During this thanksgiving, my cousin Sabi surprised us by making this traditional pomelo salad. This is how she made it. There is no exact amount for the recipe because there is no standard way of making it. Sugar and salt is added according to taste and also depends on the flavors, sweetness, and tartness of fruits used.

1 part pomelo
1 part other fruits (apples, bananas, oranges or any other fruits)
½ part plain yogurt
¼ part roasted ground sesame powder
salt
sugar
red chili pepper and/or paprika (a pinch per cup of salad)

1/8 part vegetable oil
fenugreek seeds (¼ teaspoon per cup of salad)
turmeric (a pinch per cup of salad)

Peal citrus fruits and add cut fruit pieces. You can substitute pomelo with sweet grapefruit, if you couldn’t find pomelo.

Pomelo with orange, banana, and apple

Yogurt is used as the base for this pomelo salad dressing.

Making yogurt-based dressing from scratch

Spice up salad dressing by adding spices.

Adding spices in pomelo salad

Yogurt and ground roasted sesame are the key ingredients for the pomelo salad dressing. Add roasted sesame powder. You can make your own roasted sesame powder. Start by pan roasting sesame until it slightly browns, but be careful as it will start crackling and jumping off the pan. Let the roasted sesame cool. Ground it.

Pomelo salad mix without sesame and oil

In the final step of its preparation; you temper the fruit salad mixed with yogurt and spices by adding warm oil seasoned with fenugreek. To season the oil, heat it with fenugreek seeds as shown in aloo sadeko. After fenugreek seeds turn black, turn off the heat, wait a bit and add the warm (be careful!) oil to the salad. Mix and eat.

After tempering with fenugreek infused oil

Eating the pomelo salad after a long time brought back fond memories of my childhood — next time I will be sure to make a pomelo hat for myself.

Pomelo salad (Bhogatee sadeko)

I wish I took a second serving….

 

Bhogatee sadeko!
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Pineapple Tomatillo

Tuesday, October 12th, 2010
Summer farmers market

Summer is over. I am sure to miss my weekend morning ritual of walking to the farmer’s market, buying groceries for the week while sampling various produce.  In farmers markets, I find uniqueness in commonest ingredients (e.g., heirloom tomatoes) and often run into an uncommon gem. One of the things I grew to love this summer were tomatillos, pineapple tomatillos to be precise.

Tomatillo (L is often silent) is a popular fruit/vegetable grown in Mexico. Tomatillos have been gaining popularity in the United States. It looks similar to tomatoes but has meatier flesh than tomatoes. The sticky glutinous pulp is covered by husk like in cape gooseberry fruits. Generally, tomatillos are a bit sweeter than sweet tomatoes. Many Mexican dishes contain liberal use of tomatillos. Tomatillos are still not a mainstream ingredient but most of us have enjoyed dishes made with it, such as salsa verde (green salsa) or many other Mexican dishes.

Tomatillos (Based on photos by Hozae/Little blue hen)

This summer, I tried pineapple tomatillos for the first time. A super enthusiastic vendor at my the farmer’s market was handing them out. I am glad that I was curious enough to try them.

Pineapple Tomatillo Classification

There is much confusion about pineapple tomatillos — if they are same thing as tomatoes or cape gooseberry, etc.

Pineapple tomatillos

Tomatillos are not unripe green tomatoes although they are often called “green tomatoes”. Both are from same family, Solanaceae, but from different genus Solanum (tomato) and Physalis (tomatillo).  Tomato and tomatillo has as much similarities as other familiar vegetables such as potatoes and eggplants, which belong to the same family, Solanaceae.

Pineapple tomatillo is a cultivar of tomatillo, which is Physalis philadelphica (or ixocarpa) while cape gooseberry is Physalis peruviana. Pineapple tomatillos are from the same genus but are from different species. They are similar in same way as a cow (Bos primigenius) is similar to an yak (Bos grunniens) and we (Homo sapiens) are similar to neanderthals (Homo neanderthalensis).

Pineapple Tomatillos in the Farmers Market

The regular green tomatillos are becoming common and can be bought at majority of large grocery stores around the country. Pineapple tomatillos are harder to find cultivar of tomatillos often found only in farmers markets.

Pineapple tomatillos

Pineapple tomatillos are smaller than regular tomatillos, similar in size and shape to cherry tomatoes. Like any tomatillos, the fruit of pineapple tomatillos are covered in papery husk. The flavor is unique a blend of tomato and sweetness of pineapple.

Pints of pineapple tomatillos at the farmers market

At $5.50 per pint, pineapple tomatillos were not super affordable. I bought them without any idea on how to eat them. After buying, I probed the enthusiastic vendor for ideas. His reply was to eat directly as a snack or add them in a summer salad. After probing further, he let me in his secret – he often uses pineapple tomatillos as toppings for vanilla ice cream.

Pineapple Tomatillo Recipe

After returning from the farmers market, I fixed myself a bowl of vanilla ice cream with pineapple tomatillos on top of it. It was a good excuse to eat ice cream. Pineapple tomatillos were a perfect topping for the ice cream.  They were not too sweet to overpower sweetness of the ice cream. Pineapple tomatillo’s succulent texture complimented perfectly with smooth melting ice cream.

Pineapple tomatillos on ice cream

In coming days, I finished my first batch of pineapple tomatillos as topping to a half gallon of vanilla ice cream.  If I have to defend myself, part of the reason was because I couldn’t find any recipes for pineapple tomatillos online. Most of them used pineapple fruit and regular tomatillos. The following week, I went to the farmers market looking for pineapple tomatillos – determined not just to use them as ice cream toppings but in few other recipes.  They were out of pineapple tomatillos for this year. Definitely next season!

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