Archive for the ‘Indian food’ Category

My journey for Pongal with coconut chutney

Tuesday, September 28th, 2010

Pongal was my morning ritual every day before I went to my college on a small town located in southern India. A while back someone asked me what my favorite south Indian dish was. I paused and answered “Pongal”. Technically, I like Ven Pongal or spicy pongal not the Sakarai Pongal or sweet pongal.

Pongal with coconut chutney

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Pongal is made of rice and mung bean cooked into porridge like consistency. Ven pongal is eaten with either sambar or chutney as a common breakfast food. I am not a big fan of breakfast food but Pongal tops this very narrow list of my favorite breakfasts.

Pongal and Pongal Festival

Pongal is usually a main dish consumed in Pongal festival celebrated by Tamils in state of Tamilnadu in India and Sir Lanka. Pongal festival marks the end of cold winter and dawn of spring harvest. Interestingly it falls close to festival of Makara Sankranthi celebrated in my home country of Nepal and throughout India. Pongal festival is dedicated to the Sun because the sun is considered as a deity for the good harvest and baptizing the first grain to the sun is appropriate. Pongal is celebrated for four days in the mid-January with celebrations of drawing Kolam, swinging and cooking of delicious Pongal.

Kolam with sakari pongal in the middle (Photo based on Sowri)

Sweet pongal (Sakarai Pongal) with generous amount of sugar, jaggery (gudh), coconut, on earthen pots are served in temples as a Prasad, a Hindu communion or offering to god.

Sakarai Pongal (Phot based on Kuttibalu)

Pongal brunch

On one Saturday, after wondering what to eat for brunch, we finally settled on making pongal with coconut chutney. I have never made pongal in my life so I was excited, confused, and at the same time nostalgic about my college days. We started by getting groceries at an Indian grocery store, Krishna Grocery in Springfield, Virginia. While shopping, my wife found a ready-to-eat Pongal from MTR. Indeed, we had to buy that pongal for the comparison later.

Here are the necessary ingredients for making ven pongal;

Pongal base:
1 cup rice
¼ cup mung dal
5 cups of water
2 tablespoons ghee or butter

Pongal spice:
1 teaspoon cumin seeds
½ teaspoon peppercorn
¼ teaspoon ground black pepper
10 pieces of whole cashew nuts
¼ teaspoon turmeric
5 curry leaves
1 teaspoon grated ginger
1¼ teaspoon salt or according to taste

Spices for pongal

Steps for making delicious Pongal:

Take 1 cup of rice and ¼ cup of mung dal. Mix and wash.

Heat 2 tablespoons of butter in utensils, lightly pan fry rice and moong dal until it becomes light brown.

Add 5 cups of water and let the rice and dal cook in medium heat until you get thick porridge like consistency.

Cooking rice and mung for pongal

After rice gets right consistency, we can make necessary steps to add spices for pongal. The right consistency is somewhat difficult to define. Rice and transfers into one uniform porridge without trace of their individual grains. It has to be thick enough to hold its shape but creamy enough to melt in your mouth. The beauty of Pongal lies in its perfect texture.

Heat a frying pan at a medium heat with 1½ of vegetable oil. When oil is hot, add following spices; cumin, peppercorn, powdered pepper, cashew nuts, turmeric, ginger, curry leaves, salt in this order.

Frying spices for pongal

Turn off heat and add rice and mung pongal base and mix.

Cooked pongal

Sculpt pongal into semisphere (half of sphere) shape by putting it in a bowl and transferring it on a plate.

Homemade ven pongal

Coconut Chutney

Ven pongal is usually served with sweet and spicy coconut chutney. Lightly spiced creamy warm ven pongal is balanced perfectly by cooling spicy coconut chutney.

Coconut Chutney base:
1 cup grated coconut
¼ cups roasted chickpeas
5 pieces whole cashew nuts
¼ cup cilantro (or mint)
2 cups water (add more for consistency)

Base ingredients for coconut chutney

Chutney spice tempering (Tadka):
1 tablespoon mustard seeds
1 tablespoon cumin seeds
2 pieces red dry chilies
1 tablespoon skinless urad dal (soaked in water for ½ hour)
¼ tablespoon hing or asafetida
2 green chilies
4 fresh curry leaves
2 tablespoons vegetable oil

Spices for coconut chutney

Steps for making mouthwatering coconut chutney:

Lightly grind all ingredients listed under the coconut chutney base in a blender.

Heat oil. Successively fry following ingredients in this order with few seconds of interval; mustard seeds, cumin seeds, red dry chilies, soaked urad dal (without water), hing, curry leaves.

Carefully (without splattering) add the fried spices on top of blended coconut chutney base. Let it sit for few minutes and mix. This spice tempering method is called Tadka.

Tempering fried spices on coconut chutney
Coconut chutney with cilantro

Ready-to-eat Pongal by MTR

MTR Pongal box

Ready-to-eat pongal made by MTR was very easy to make. You can microwave or just immerse in hot water bath. MTR’s pongal was slightly more watery. The flavor was off. Since it might had more turmeric, it tasted a bit like another Indian dish called Khichadi or similar Nepali version called Jaula. Everyone at the table found my first time Pongal far better than the packaged version.

Pongal from MTR

Pongal at Saravana Palace Restaurant

Even after sampling a ready-to-eat Pongal, I was still wanted eat authentic pongal in an restaurant. I knew my Pongal was decent but I wanted others, who never had Pongal in their life, to try a professionally made or homemade Pongal for a comparison.

Not to my surprise, many Indian restaurants don’t serve Pongal. Even among vegetarian restaurants, a few of them served Pongal.

In Tamilnadu India, I had the good fortune of eating in chain of restaurants called Saravana Palace. When I saw a restaurant with same name in the greater Washington DC area, I had to go there and try their Pongal.

Sarvana Palace

Service at Sarvana Palace in Virginia was friendly, but the Pongal was disappointing. I am sad to say that more than an hour of driving was fruitless. Pongal at the restaurant was worse than the Pongal packaged by MTR. Pongal was very watery and flavor was blander. Avial, a vegetable curry made with coconut from Kerala, was barely acceptable. Three of us barely finished a serving of Pongal. If I had told a newbie to try Pongal at Saravana Palace, I would not be surprised they come out hating it.

Pongal with Avial, Coconut chutney and Sambhar at Sarvana Palace

After trying ready-go Pongal and Pongal at Saravana Palace, I am proud to say that my home made Pongal was able to freshen warm memories of my college days.

My homemade Pongal with coconut chutney

My take on Bengali fish curry

Thursday, July 1st, 2010

Bengali food, for me, always evokes images of fragrant fish curry with spicy sauce served over hot bed of basmati rice. Bengali food encompasses the food of historical Bengal, now divided into country Bangladesh and state of West Bengal in India.

Bengal is full of rivers and consequently most of Bengali fish are fresh water fish. Until recently, marine fish were considered somewhat inferior. Floodplains of Bengal have been growing rice for more than four millennia. According to a decade old World Bank estimate, an average Bangladeshi gets 70% of calories from rice. Indeed there’s a saying that goes as “machhe bhate bengali”, which roughly translates into “a Bengali is made of fish and rice”.

Bengali fish jhol

There is no standard way of cooking Bengali fish. There are thousands of ways to cook a fish in Bengal and millions of families have their own unwritten family recipes.  One of the famous ways to cook method is called “jhol”, which translates to liquid, and conceptually a curried stew with vegetable. Fish is simmered slowly with herbs and vegetables so that flavor permeates – something like French bouillabaisse.

My take on a simple Bengali fish curry included a neutral flavor fish, such as tilapia cooked with Panch Phoron spice in onion and tomato stew – a tribute to Bengali machhe (fish) jhol.

I understand that most people don’t have Panch Phoron in their cabinets. Even most Indian cooks might not have it. Few years ago, I saw my friends Sr’na and Pr’nta cooking with it. They were shocked that, being a self-proclaimed Indian food connoisseur, I didn’t know about Panch Phoron. My ego was hurt but balanced was restored when some of good Indian cooks also didn’t know about it. Then, I realized it’s a regional spice. Panch Phoran is a spice blend made from five (panch) whole spices; fenugreek, nigella seeds, mustard seeds, fennel seeds, and celery seeds or cumin seeds. It’s easily found in any of your local Indian grocery store. Even if you don’t have it, for purpose of this Bengali jhol dish, you can make your own with three, instead of five, main ingredients; fennel seeds, cumin seeds, and mustard seeds. Remember the keyword here, use “whole seed” not “ground spice”.

My Bengali fish recipe is so simple that it can be written in just one sentence. Heat oil on medium heat, fry spices for few seconds, sauté sliced onion till golden brown, and add chopped tomatoes, add salt, bring stew to boil, add cut fish (tilapia), turn off heat after a minute, and serve after few minutes of simmering. Try to add at least same amount (not more than twice) of veggies (including onion and tomatoes) as the fish. To get started, limit ½ tablespoon of spice mix per realistic serving of the dish. Remember that you can always add spices later but it’s impossible to remove it. Optionally, you can also sauté a few cloves of garlic and shreds of ginger with onion. One other thing you must remember is not to overcook the fish.

Bengali fish and rice platter with lentils and spinach

This is not a typical highly spicy creamy heavy dish served in Indian restaurants. The aromatic sweet flavors of fennel seeds, curry flavor of cumin seeds and mild spicy/hot flavor of mustard seeds go well naturally with tilapia and onion/tomatoes to make a very pleasant and light dish.

Panch Phoron’s image is from food-india.com.

Aloo chat – from everyday dorm ingredients

Friday, March 12th, 2010

Aloo chat is the most basic type of Indian subcontinental savory snacks (chaat) (also spelled alu chaat). Tradtionally, it’s made from deep fried potatoes (aloo) served with vegetables and chaat sauce, which is usually made from yogurt. This recipe is dedicated to my cousin R’sha, who is studying in a sleepy Midwestern town. She is a big fan of aloo chat. During her last visit we made samosa chat, she asked me to show her a basic aloo chat recipe with everyday dorm ingredients. A good chaat contains savory, salty, sour, and sweet flavors in a perfect harmony. It also has a velvety smooth sauce encompassing soft and crunchy fillings.

Here’s how to make a simple aloo chat.

Get home fries, sprinkle with pinch of garam masala and mix.
Or, cut a potato (slightly larger than egg-size) into small cubes (few cms) and coat with a teaspoon of oil, salt and pinch of garam masala. Here I used red waxy potatoes and mustard oil, which gives a pungent aromatic flavors but any fat would work.

Microwave three times, for 90 second each, while stirring in between. If using home fries, microwave only once. Let it stand for at least 15 minutes. Cooling potatoes before adding yogurt and other ingredients is essential.

Add chopped onions and tomatoes. Other highly recommended toppings are cilantro and canned garbanzo beans. Here I used yellow onion and grape tomatoes.

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In search of perfect Kabob in Washington DC

Monday, March 8th, 2010

Perfect kabob = flavorful grilled marinated (or spiced) meat cooked succulent but tender enough to melt in your mouth. The major disappointment for kabob is a dry and chewy kabob. Generally, kabob is served with leavened flat-bread (often known as naan), rice and vegetables/salad.

There are four categories of kabobs;

Shish kabob or souvlaki or satay or sekuwa: marinated chunk of usually cubed boneless meat grilled over open charcoal. Shish kabobs are usually grilled with skewers. Shish kabobs need the highest quality meat because there is no processing of meat before cooking except marination. Since shish kabobs are cooked with just radiant heat, it can be most succulent and juicy kabob if cooked right.

Marinated Lamb Kabob from Kabob Palace

Tandoor kabob or kathi kabob or bhatti Kabob: marinated chunk of (usually with bones) meat grilled in a high heat clay oven known as tandoor. Temperature in tandoor can go as high as 900°F. Tandoor Kabob is generally a bit dry than shish kabobs because both radiant heat (from fire) and convection heat (hot air) is cooking the kabobs. A famous example of tandoor kabob is the tandoori chicken served in virtually any non-vegetarian Indian restaurants.

Chapli kabob or kakori kabob or Kubideh kabob:  spiced ground meat usually cooked over charcoal grill. Since it’s made of ground meat, many inferior meats can be served as this kabob. Basically it’s like grilled burger (with more spice). A burger can be McDry burger or a heavenly delight (see best burgers in DC).

Doner kebab (Turkish) or Turkish kabob (Indian subcontinent and Iran) or shawarma (Arabic) or gyro (Greek) : vertical cone shaped kabob that are sliced to order. The traditional way to make doner kabob is to stack marinated slices of lamb meat on a rotating vertical skewer in the shape of an inverted cone topped with fat, tomatoes, and onion flavoring the meat in bottom with its drippings when heated. However, in west doner kebab is often industrially manufactured with ground meat. The traditional doner kabob is cooked in rotating charcoal or wood cooker. It is sort of old fashioned rotisserie meat.

Spices, marination, sauce, side ingredients and type of meat may change but the above four categories encompass essence of all kabobs. For example, in countries with large Muslim population, kabobs are made from lamb and sometimes with beef, in Indian subcontinent it has curry based spices, in Thailand it may be served with peanut sauce, Greeks make gyro from pork, which is taboo meat in Muslim countries, and serve with yogurt sauce.

For me Kabob is street food or at most a fast food such as oldstyle delis. So, I don’t like the idea of kabobs in a fancy restaurant. A kabob joint should be an unassuming place that serves the quality Kabob with possibly flatbread and should not be heavy on your wallet. My search for perfect kabob took me to these places in and around DC.

Moby Dick
Moby Dick is a DC based local kabob chain, with notably Georgetown and Dupont location. Kabobs in Moby Dick have Persian (Iranian) influence. One of my favorite kabob is Joojeh Kabob, which is grilled boneless piece of chicken marinated with seasoning such as saffron, black pepper and lemon juice. Another classic favorite is Kubideh kabob. Kubideh kabob generally means kabob made from ground meat such as lamb or beef.

Lamb and chicken kabobs at Moby Dick

In Moby Dick, it is sirloin. Many of Moby Dick’s entrees are very similar to the Persian national dish, Chelow kabob. Chelow kabob consist of steamed saffron basmati rice (Chelow) and kabob. Traditionally, Chelow kabob is served with grilled tomatoes on the side and butter on top of the steamed rice like the way it’s served in Moby Dick. Moby Dick also provides a classic condiments, ground sumac (Somagh), on their tables. You can sprinkle this reddish looking powder on rice to give somewhat of aromatic tart flavor. If you are adventurous enough, Moby Dick also serves the traditional yogurt drink, Doogh, which are often carbonated and flavored with salt and mint. Moby Dick has two varieties; the homemade and the commercial. The homemade is more flavorful while commercial is more carbonated. It reminds me of salty lassi drink people in northern India drink to cool off during hot summer days. Definitely try, if you are a foodie!

Kabob Palace
First, a word of caution. I had been to Kabob Palace couple of times few years ago. It is walkable from crystal city metro. So, this time when we went, we accidently went to another sit down type restaurant in same block called Kabob Palace Restaurant. We got table and immediately realized it is not the Kabob Palace that I remembered. The obvious thing to do was shamelessly get up and go to the real Kabob Palace. There are two other Kabob joints right next to the famous Kabob Palace. The other one is Shisha Palace Café, which is more of shisha joint (Hookah). I have eaten there once and the food is okay. Indeed, my recommendation is go to the Kabob Palace, which is setup like a fast food deli; you order, pay, get a number and wait.

The Kabob Palace in Crystal City
Shisha Palace Cafe and Kabob Palace Restaurant

The kabobs here have more of Indian subcontinental influence (read; Afghanistan, Bangladesh, Pakistan and India) because spice marination of kabob has more curry flavors. However, it also serves kubideh, which is more of Persian style kabob. They also serves chapli kebab or chappal kabob, a spicy beef patty made in Peshawari style, a northwestern part of Pakistan. Lamb kabobs are served with bones as well as without bones. All the kabobs are served with rice, salad and Indian subcontinental style curried vegetables such as spinach potato (palak aloo), chickpeas etc. Beside kabob, Kabob Palace also serves other dishes such as Karahi chicken. One of the best part of Kabob Palace is that you get a free black masala chai (see previous post on chai) while you wait for your kabobs. Both time I went to Kabob Palace, it was snowing and their hot tea made me feel at home.

Chicken kabob in Kabob Palace
Lamb Kabob in Kabob Palace

Ravi Kabob, Kabob Bazaar and others
Ravi Kabob is another Indian subcontinental kabob joint. You will get regular curry flavored chicken and lamb kabob and also find Lahori style karahi, kofta, Punjabi curry with pakora, aloo mutter. They also serve Haleem, which is sort of like chili type dish (without beans) with pulled meat. Ravi Kabob also serves dessert such as ras malai. However, Ravi Kabob is not metro accessible.

Kabob Bazar is a kabob between courthouse and clarendon metro. It serves Middle Eastern type kabob, i.e., light on curry spices. It also has other Middle Eastern fare such as falafel, hummus, as well as decent selection of vegetarian and fish kabobs.

There are many other wonderful kabob joints around DC area that I have yet to explore. My suggestion is go and try them out. You may find a hidden jewel hiding in your neighborhood.

In search of Doner Kabob
I found virtually all of the restaurants in DC serve industrially manufactured doner kabob, shawarma or gyro with ground meat. Some of DC based blog tipped me to this place called DC Café (P Street- near DuPont circle) that serves homemade gyro kabob. I called and DC Café confirmed that they make homemade chicken gyros meat. When I went there, I didn’t see any inverted vertical rotating grill but somewhat of dinky and dirty establishment. Hoping it must be one of those hole-in-wall jewels; I confirmed the homemade gyro and paid for my dinner. After a while, I realized they just cook a piece meat that is sitting outside on flattop surface like a chicken cheese steak (without cheese). The cook added onions and served with very sour (stale?) yogurt sauce on a stale pita. It was one of the most disheartening meals that I ever had with questionable hygiene. In fact, even I didn’t eat lunch that day, I couldn’t bring me finish my fake kabob and I eat everything. My search for authentic doner kebab, shawarma or gyro is still on.  Any suggestions will be appreciated.

The best lentil soup with or without a Crockpot

Saturday, February 27th, 2010

Technically, lentil is a type of legume (pulse) plant and its edible dried seeds. Lentil is commonly known as Masoor and has botanical name Lens culinaris. However, in the culinary world, the word “lentil” is also used for the whole family of legumes or pulses that include; masoorchana (split chickpeas), toorurad (see my last post of urad and jimbu) etc. In Indian subcontinent, lentils, which are commonly known as dal, are one of the quintessential food items and the biggest source of protein. It is usually prepared as a soupy stew like dish also known as dal and served with rice or flatbreads.

A few years into my graduate school, I bought a small Crockpot from Wal-Mart (couldn’t resist $9.99 price). I used it quite often because I lived in a dorm with a shared kitchen. Lentil soup was my default meal to cook in this new culinary toy. I would leave some lentils, usually from Safeway from across the street, water, knick knacks (hint — leftovers) in morning. When I came back in evening, I had hot lentil soup ready. I experimented with different type of “lentils”, different knick knacks and spices. My lentil soup was, in essence, adaptation of Indian subcontinental dal. My favorite is chana dal because it produces creamier, thicker and most flavorful soup. However, chana dal was not available in Safeway and needed a special trip down to an Indian grocery store in Virginia. This ritual went on couple of times a week for more than a semester until the dorm management confiscated my Crockpot. The official reason was that it was a fire hazard but I believe that they really wanted my lentil soup.

I miss my Crockpot. But now I have learned to make lentil soup without it. Here are my recommendations for making the best lentil soup with or without a Crockpot.

Rinse and soak lentil of choice (or mixture) overnight (at least put 3 times more water)

Throw out the extra water. Add same volume of filtered water as the soaked bean. Start boiling on medium-high heat. You can substitute some water with chicken stock for more flavorful soup.

Do not add anything until lentil soup starts to boil. Depending on type of lentils and presoaking, cooking may take anywhere from half hour to an hour and change. It’s nearly impossible to overcook lentils. However, it is easy to burn them. So after boiling reduce heat to medium or medium low.

Fried whole cumin seeds, onions, and tomatoes for the lentil soup

For yellow lentils, I recommend only one spice; whole cumin seeds. The whole cumin seed (not the powder) blends with yellow lentil in naturally aromatic and tasteful way that I have not seen with any other spice. Fry whole cumin in ghee (or butter) until you get dark brown color. Add a pinch of cumin seeds per cup of lentil soup. Beside whole cumin, I would recommend chopped sautéed shallots or onions (even dried onion powder works), tomatoes, and butter as flavors. Cilantro is an excellent garnish after lentil is cooked. A very few drops of lime juice also enhances the flavor but don’t add it if you are already adding acidic ingredients such as tomatoes. Other flavors you may add or substitute are roasted garlic, green chilies, asafetida (if adventurous).

Traditional north Indian dals don’t have any other ingredients except few seasoning but south Indian dal often has lots of vegetables. If you are making a lentil soup, I wholeheartedly recommend you to add other ingredients. For each cup of cooked lentil soup, do not add more than ⅓ cup of other ingredients. My favorites are commercial frozen meatballs (both Costco’s and Ikea’s), cooked pieces of meats, any veggies, rice, broken pieces of pasta, etc. My favorite veggies to add are; cut pieces of broccoli, green peas, mushroom, and zucchini. The idea is to add anything you want to eat or anything you have on hand. Be a lentil artist here! My suggestion is not to add too many ingredients at once because it’s going to confuse your palates. Don’t add more than one ingredient from each category of meat, vegetable and starch.

Lentil soupThe best lentil soup!

Once a friend of mine hated the flavor of his lentil soup recipe I gave him. Finally, I discovered that he didn’t put enough salt. Salt is probably the most important flavor in your lentil soup. Alright, technically it brings out the flavor of lentil soup. Don’t forget to add tasteful (and healthy) amount of salt. Just changing the amount of salt can drastically change lentil soup’s flavor. My recommendation is not more than ½ teaspoon of salt per cup of cooked lentil. Gradually add salt, taste the lentil soup, and calibrate amount of salt you want. Lentils maybe a healthy food but you will notice that like any other soup it’s high on sodium.